The Process	A canvas floorcloth is a very durable, distinctive, versatile, and easy-to maintain floor covering. It is durable because it is constructed to endure. They are made of non-toxic materials and unlike many broadloom and  vinyl products, will not release any harmful vapors after they are placed in a room. They can be customized as to size and painted to match any décor. Following is how a floorcloth comes to be.
Design	A floorcloth begins life with a design geared to create a rug (or wall hanging) that will meet the purchaser's needs and aesthetic tastes. The concept is drawn on paper (to a scale) and the colors are roughed in. If the design is successful, a model of the final piece is created. This provides a better idea of what the colors of the finished piece will look like and if the design needs modification. These models can also be used as samples for retailers, and for juried shows. Once the sample piece is completed, it can be enlarged to create the initial full sized floorcloth. When it is determined that all of the design elements work, the floorcloth can be used to create a stencil. The stencil can be used to create multiples. A design “family” can then be produced using the same elements with different colors, or on decorative pieces.
Materials	Board for stretching the canvas Staple Gun White Glue Canvas (artist's drop cloth or purchased artist canvas) White Acrylic paint for Primer (I use Latex) Water Based Polyurethane (as varnish) Paint for floorcloth pattern 1” moulding (for hemming the sides of the floorcloth) Clamps
Step 1 Preparing the canvas
	Canvas preparation is the most important step in the whole floorcloth creation process. How well the preparation is done is related to the durability of the floorcloth. If a floorcloth is for a large area and will not be moved very often, priming the back may not be necessary, but if your floorcloth is for in front of the kitchen sink, make sure the back is primed as well. A floorcloth physically begins as raw, heavy canvas. The canvas is rough cut and stapled it to a board.
	The canvas is then stretched and primed. Priming gives you a more consistent surface to paint on, an even background color and protects the canvas from moisture mold and dirt.  For the best results, the primer should dry for no less than 6 hours between coats and preferably over night between the first and second. The time range depends on the temperature and humidity.
	Once the primer coats have dried, the canvas is flipped over. It is important the primer has dried thoroughly before priming the other side or you may get “buckles” or “waves” in your floorcloth after you apply the top coats. I generally wait 2 days.
	The canvas is marked for the hems adding an inch to each side. For example: for a 24”x36” floorcloth, you mark the primed canvas for 26”x38”. The canvas is then trimmed to the size for the floorcloth. To ensure my floorcloth is square-I use a T-square or a drafting triangle when marking the sides. I measure in 1” from the first edge, then make the measurement for the size of the floorcloth and mark for the second inch. I trim the canvas, to the size I want the floorcloth. For hemming, a line is scribed 1” from the edge of the cloth. (My floorcloth is now 24”x 36”) I cut across the corner to create a flat corner when I glue down the hem.
	To fold the hem, I run a kitchen knife along the pencil line, fold over the canvas and finger press to create a crease. I then apply white glue to the hem using a paintbrush.
	The glued hem is folded into place and clamped until dry. This can take from 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on the heat and humidity. I use 2 1x2s and weights (or clamps) to hold the hem in place while the glue sets. Once the hem is complete, I may base coat the floorcloth. Bas coating gives the floorcloth an extra smooth surface, which can be needed for intricate designs.
	A design can then be transferred, by a number of different means or directly drawn on the floorcloth surface. Hand-painting, faux finishing, stencilling, and stamping-all using original patterns to avoid any copyright problems-may be used. In the illustrations, the design has been drawn on in pencil, and then inked with a fine point permanent marker.
	The pencil lines are erased, as they will bleed up through the acrylic paint.
	The floorcloth surface and is painted, using water-based paints and glazes. Frequently many coats of paint are laid down in the painting process.
	Finally, the paint must thoroughly cure before receiving the protective coatings of polyurethane. I treat my floorcloths with 4-7 coats of quality, floor-grade, and polyurethane to create a surface that is 3 times more durable than that of a hardwood floor. It also receives 1 coat of polyurethane on the back. Each coat must dry and cure for at least 24 hours before the next coat is applied. All told, a floorcloth receives many coats of surface treatment and protection before it reaches a floor. The finished product is very substantial and has heft and presence, similar to that of leather.
Copyright 2007 Barb Kowalik	Contact Me barb@barkowalik.com